Breguet Tradition 7047 Tourbillon Fusee A Legend of Two Centuries

The legendary watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet invented the tourbillon in 1795. In the same period of time 200 years ago, the fusee chain transmission was first seen in the world. Today, Breguet brings together these two legacies into the Tradition 7047 Tourbillon Fusee watch.

The legendary watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet invented the tourbillon in 1795. In the same period of time 200 years ago, the fusee chain transmission was first seen in the world. Today, Breguet brings together these two legacies into the Tradition 7047 Tourbillon Fusee watch. 

Tradition 7047 Tourbillon Fusee

Specification：表殼：玫瑰金直徑：41mm機芯：569手上鍊功能：時、分、陀飛輪、芝麻鏈、動力儲備顯示

Breguet has over 230 years history under its belt. Its founder Abraham-Louis Breguet, a watchmaker-cum-inventor, created a great deal of pioneering horological inventions. Among his many innovations were the hands and numerals on the dial, perpetual calendar, gong spring for the minute repeater, pare-chute (shock absorber system) and tourbillon, a complication for hi-end watches at all times. Another technical accomplishment of the Manufacture is the fuess chain whose name comes directly from the French ‘fusee’ and from Latin ‘fusata,’ meaning a spindle full of thread. It is said that the fusee chain first appeared in early 15th century and was widely adopted in 17th and 18th century. 

 In fact, the fusee and chain transmission mechanism is worked by a fusee and chain. For general mechanic watches, the torque generated by the mainspring is higher when it is fully wound and weaker as it nears the fully unwound state, thereby resulting a slight inaccuracy. With the fusee and chain transmission system, the mainspring is connected with the fusee by a long thin chain. When the watch is fully wound, all the chain is completely wrapped around the fusee from bottom to top. As the spring relaxes, the movement receives a constant amount of force from the fusee, keeping the watch running at a stable rate. 

 Simply speaking, the fusee and chain transmission applies the principle of levers: When the mainspring is fully wound and thus exerts great force, the chain pulls at the smaller radius of the fusee where the leverage is smaller. As the spring’s tension diminishes, the chain pulls at the larger radius with the higher leverage. The fusee and chain system in the ref.7047 consists of over 600 parts. It is still sheer craftsmanship in modern day, not to mention how it was made in 200 years ago. These two technical geniuses, namely the fusee chain and tourbillon, are nicely packaged in the masterpiece, representing the epitome of watchmaking expertise.

 Let’s have a look back on the Tradition Collection. The first Tradition model ref.7027, inspired by Mr. Breguet’s pocket watch No.728, was launched back in 2005. Followed by ref.7037, the watch is equipped with a self-winding movement instead of a hand-wound one and added a retrograde second hand. The ref.7047 houses a fusee chain and tourbillon with a slight adjustment on dial, while the ref.7057 inherits the dial design from the ref.7027. Its case is enlarged 3mm to 40mm. More spacious, the sub-dial is bigger at 12 o’clock. Now the latest ref.7067 (coming in the next page) is the second complicated watch in the collection with the same case size and layout as its predecessor.  

 The ref.7047 in 41mm rose gold case boasts an 18K gold coated dial and movement. The hour and minute dial sits at 7 o’clock with the fusee and chain on each side, while the tourbillon is at 1 o’clock. The piece houses the hand-wound movement 569 with titanium balance, silicon balance spring and straight-line Swiss lever escapement, providing 50 hours of power reserve. A new black galvanic-coated dial version is also on offer. ( Price around $1,400,700 )

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Tradition 7067 GMT

Specification：表殼：玫瑰金直徑：40mm機芯：507DRF手上鍊功能：時、分、兩地時間、日夜顯示、動力儲備顯示

We are going to introduce you the aforementioned Tradition 7067 GMT, which is the latest addition and first model featuring the GMT function in the Tradition family. Apart from the exquisite openwork dial, the watch is particularly useful for frequent travellers. The local time shown at 12 o’clock can be easily adjusted through the button at 10 o’clock, while the home time is located at 8 o’clock. The two sub-dials are in silver and black respectively with the anthracite-coloured movement highlighting the balance-wheel at 4 o’clock. 

The Breguet spring with its raised terminal curve and the inverted inline lever escapement are both in silicon, ensuring a more stable performance. The 18K gold dial is adorned with guilloche pattern, blue steel Breguet hands and Roman numerals. The hand-wound movement 507DRF with a 50-hour power reserve is perfectly fitted into a 40mm case in rose gold or white gold. Since the first generation of the Tradition collection, the power reserve indicator has always found its home on the dial. Yet, the ref.7067 is the first Tradition model putting the power reserve indicator at the back of the watch. The movement that is generally hidden can be admired through the sapphire crystal case back. ( Price around $321,000 )

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Marine 5857 GMT

Specification：表殼：玫瑰金直徑：42mm機芯：517F自動功能：時、分、兩地時間、24小時顯示、日期

Breguet has held a deep connection with the ocean. Back in 1815, Mr. Breguet was appointed as the ‘Horologer to the Royal Navy’ and developed new movements for marine chronometers and pocket watches. During 1815 to 1823, he robustly supplied 22 marine chronometers for the French Royal Navy. Therefore, the Marine collection is emblematic of the glorious history and adds today the new member ref.5857, the first watch with GMT function in the line-up.

The local time is clearly shown by the two central hands, while the sub-dial at 6 o’clock shows the home time paired with the 24-hour display at 2 o’clock. For better readability, the two time zones are indicated by luminous hands and differentiated by the Roman numerals and Arabic numerals. The ref.5857 is sized at 42mm and its 18K gold dial is coated in blackened rhodium and engraved with wave guilloche pattern. The watch is powered by the self-winding movement 517F with the inverted in-line lever escapement and flat balance-spring in silicon, offering a 72-hour of power reserve. The ref.5857 also comes in a steel case with silvered dial. ( Price around $285,900 )

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Classique 5277 Reserve de Marche

Specification：表殼：白金直徑：38mm機芯：515DR手上鍊功能：時、分、小秒、動力儲備顯示

The classic design style of the master watchmaker Breguet is rooted in the Classique collection. Last year we saw a simple yet classic three-hand model: the ref.5277. The understated dial setting with a power reserve indicator at 1:30, along with the hobnail guilloche pattern, Breguet hands in blue steel and roman numerals, all giving the watch a classic feel. The ref.5277 houses the 515DR movement, which is jointly developed by the Manufacture and its sister company Nivarox. The movement’s mainspring uses a new type of steel alloy with excellent mechanical properties that came out in 2012. This patented material stores more energy in a given volume, which means a greater power reserve and a constant force for an unvarying rate. Thus, the accuracy is enhanced.

Besides, this alloy is also ecological, being non-magnetic and free of cobalt or beryllium. In a further effort to improve the mainspring’s functions, the Manufacture and Swatch Group joined hands to develop an unusual patented design for parts of the barrel, substantially reducing the diameter of the barrel arbor’s core, thereby increasing the mainspring’s length and number of coils. This increases the power reserve of the ref.5277 from 75 to 96 hours. Moreover, the movement is also fitted with a silicon balance spring and an in-line Swiss lever escapement. This 38mm watch is available either in white gold or rose gold. ( Price around $155,200 )

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Reine De Naples “Day/Night” 8998

Specification：表殼：白金直徑：40.05 x 32mm機芯：78CS自動功能：時、分、24小時日夜顯示

Last year, the Manufacture presented the ladies’ watch ref.8998 with an oval shaped case, a unique signature of the Reine de Naples collection. The upper dial sits the day and night indicator, while the large titanium moon with a human face is placed on a disc of lapis lazuli, adorned with mother-of-pearl cloud and white-gold stars. Wondering where’s the sun in this 24 hours day indicator? It is the balance-wheel representing the sun. As time goes by, the sun goes on a daylong tour, passing beneath the crescent shaped steel bridge supporting the mechanism.

The highlights of the piece are obviously the sun and moon at the upper part of dial, while the lower part that you shouldn’t overlook is the hours and minutes display, decorated with flame and barleycorn guilloche patterns. The bezel and dial flange set with 143 diamonds (1.45 carats), teamed with the Breguet hands in blue steel, adding an elegant touch to the piece. Inside this beauty houses the self-winding movement 78CS equipped with a silicon balance-spring, offering up to 57 hours of power reserve. This 40.05 x 32mm ladies’ timepiece is also available in rose gold. ( Price around $988,300 )

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2014-06-16