Jaeger-LeCoultre 薄飛問 積家超複雜新世代

超薄、陀飛輪、三問，每一樣都是高級複雜鐘表必備的元素，任選其一或其二都是一件了不得的事情。而三位一體，則正正等於積家今年最新造的三問飛行陀飛輪超薄腕表，它既代表著品牌最頂尖製表技藝Hybris Mechanica系列中第11枚傑作，亦同時是Grand Complication超卓複雜功能腕表系列首枚超薄腕表。一枚腕表創下了三問陀飛輪超薄紀錄之餘，並擁有著6項創新專利，絕對算得上是一個新世代的開端。

Ultra-thinness, tourbillon and minute repeater are the very essences of haute horlogerie. Blending one or two of these notable features in a watch are deemed extraordinary. This year, Jaeger-LeCoultre has just unveiled the Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon which put these three features into one piece. Being the eleventh piece of haute horology in the Hybris Mechanica collection and the first ultra-thin Grand Complication from Jaeger-LeCoultre, Hybris Mechanica 11 owns 6 entirely new patents and claims to be the world’s thinnest watch that combines automatic winding, a tourbillon and a minute repeater, marking the start of a new era.

 超薄、陀飛輪、三問，每一樣都是高級複雜鐘表必備的元素，任選其一或其二都是一件了不得的事情。而三位一體，則正正等於積家今年最新造的三問飛行陀飛輪超薄腕表，它既代表著品牌最頂尖製表技藝Hybris Mechanica系列中第11枚傑作，亦同時是Grand Complication超卓複雜功能腕表系列首枚超薄腕表。一枚腕表創下了三問陀飛輪超薄紀錄之餘，並擁有著6項創新專利，絕對算得上是一個新世代的開端。 Ultra-thinness, tourbillon and minute repeater are the very essences of haute horlogerie. Blending one or two of these notable features in a watch are deemed extraordinary. This year, Jaeger-LeCoultre has just unveiled the Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon which put these three features into one piece. Being the eleventh piece of haute horology in the Hybris Mechanica collection and the first ultra-thin Grand Complication from Jaeger-LeCoultre, Hybris Mechanica 11 owns 6 entirely new patents and claims to be the world’s thinnest watch that combines automatic winding, a tourbillon and a minute repeater, marking the start of a new era.

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繼往開來
Go From Strength to Strength

Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon

Specification：表殼：超白白金直徑：41mm（厚7.9mm）機芯：362自動機芯（厚4.8mm）功能：時、分、陀飛輪、三問報時防水：30米限量：75枚
約售：294,000歐元

  1903年，來自巴黎的製表匠Edmond Jaeger製造了一整個系列的超薄機芯，更到瑞士下戰書，看有哪家表廠有能力製作這些機芯。作為LeCoultre & Cie.創辦人之孫的Jacques-David LeCoultre接下了這項挑戰，二人更攜手打造出一系列當時最薄的機芯，包括三問、計時及雙重複雜功能機芯。自1907年起至1960年間，當中最著名的LeCoultre145型機芯便生產了共400枚，其厚度不超過1.38mm，不但為積家創下了基礎，更為品牌的超薄及三問之路打下穩固的根基。至今品牌已經設計及生產200多枚三問機芯，現仍不斷在推陳出新，並創下超薄紀錄。 

全新的Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon三問陀飛輪超薄腕表的設計意念，正是來自那1907年所製的「刀形」懷表，以及其後推出的超薄三問懷表。優雅簡潔的外形，是品牌的拿手好戲，藏於其下的卻是一枚集創新陀飛輪、高性能全新擺輪游絲、外圍式自動上鍊系統、可伸縮單按及「靜音時距」縮減系統於一身的嶄新362自動機芯，厚度只有4.8mm，直至現時為止，是當世同類型功能機芯中最纖薄的一枚。 這枚機芯擁有7項專利設計，其中有6項更是全新開發的專利。首先是那個全球首個搭載飛行擺輪的飛行陀飛輪，為了避免傳統陀飛輪阻擋大家觀賞機芯內部的視線，品牌以手工製造全新的擺輪游絲，將其置於6:00位置陀飛輪的最上層，沒有任何搭橋的阻擋，可以看得一清二楚。這樣一來，不止結構上好看，穩定精確性仍然不變，也讓腕表更為纖薄。 陀飛輪之後，自動機芯中的擺陀又成為超薄機芯的一大障礙，就算造成珍珠陀，都要佔用一定空間。積家為了實現前所末有的超薄尺寸，特別將半圓的擺陀變身成半圓長條形的鉑金部件。在33.3mm直徑的機芯外圈，有個以特別研發的陶瓷滾珠軸承將鉑金擺陀固定於軌道上，可隨著佩戴者的手腕動作朝任何方向自由轉動，而順時針方向便是在為機芯上鍊。大家可以透過表盤外緣的鏤通位置，好好欣賞到這項特殊裝置的運轉情況，其最高的動力儲備可達45小時。

 In 1903, French watchmaker Edmond Jaeger challenged the Swiss watchmakers by inventing and manufacturing ultra-thin calibres. Jacques-David LeCoultre, the grandson of LeCoultre & Cie. rose to the challenge. Later, the two men collaborated and gave birth to some thinnest calibres of their time. It included several minute repeaters, chronographs and double complications. But the most famous creation is the 1.38 mm thick LeCoultre 145 Calibre, produced from 1907 until the 1960s in some 400 pieces, which laid a solid foundation of the future development of ultra-thin calibres and minute repeaters. Today, the Manufacture has produced over 200 different calibres equipped with repeater mechanisms.

 The latest Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon is inspired by the “knife-shaped” 1907 pocket watch. Clean and elegant, this intricate complication is equipped with a tourbillon, a high-performance new balance-spring, a peripheral automatic winding system, a retractable single pushbutton, as well as a new minute repeater equipped with a silent-timelapse reduction system. Powering this handsome piece is the new Calibre 362, only 4.8mm thick, earning it the record of the world’s thinnest calibre of its kind on the market today. This calibre files 7 patents, 6 of which are entirely new. First, it is the flying tourbillon fitted with a flying balance-wheel. To ensure a full view of both balance-wheel and hairspring, the Manufacture places the newly created hand-crafted balance-wheel together with the hairspring at 6:00 o’clock over the tourbillon so that they will not be blocked by the upper bridge. This technical feat brings an appealing structure, precise time keeping and a thinner tourbillon.  To develop a record-breaking ultra-thin calibre, a slim tourbillon is necessary but not sufficient. And even the micro rotor cannot meet the Manufacture demand. They, therefore, manage to equip a platinum peripheral rotor mechanism along the outer ring of the 33.3mm calibre. You can see the rotor spin through the dial apertures, charging up the 45 hours power reserve. It is also able to move freely in either direction, while clockwise rotation actually winds the calibre.

1907年積家開始造了多枚超薄懷表，包括這枚「刀形」懷表。內裡搭載不超過1.38mm厚的LeCoultre 145型機芯。

約1920年代的超薄三問懷表。

1930年製的超薄Knife I懷表。

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純美音質 The Purest Sound

 透過表盤外圈的鏤通視窗，可窺探到環形鉑金擺陀的轉動姿態。 此枚三問表繼承著以往兩款出色腕表的特點，如2005年推出的Master Minute Repeater內的水晶音簧，將音簧直接安裝於藍寶石水晶玻璃表鏡下，使聲音的震動更快速的傳播開去。再來是4年後Duometre a Grande Sonnerie的專利「trebuchet」音錘，讓音簧獲得最佳的傳遞能量。今次新表便採用了兩個「trebuchet」音錘，敲擊於兩個固定在藍寶石水晶玻璃表鏡的水晶音簧上，發出更為透澈明亮的樂聲。再加上能提高音質的白金外殼，聲音自然加倍悠揚。 除了在音質上下足工夫，品牌還在三問報時的細節上加以掌控，平常在報小時、刻鐘及分鐘時，如果毋需刻鐘報時，小時與分鐘報時之間會有一段較長的「靜音時距」。品牌特別針對這點，開發出一個能減少這種「靜音時距」的系統。當毋需報刻鐘時，這項系統便會自動消除小時與分鐘報時之間的停頓，準確地將高音與低音依照既定方式無縫地銜接在一起，又不會影響原有的節奏。連聽個報時都比人快上一拍，讓你更快知道現在時間。 最後一項專利，是腕表有一個可以伸縮的單按鈕作為啟動報時之用。傳統的三問報時多是以拉桿來操作啟動，其行程距離會因應報時長短而不盡相同；但此表的拉桿只有2mm的恆定距離，已足夠上緊發條鼓。只要輕輕一拉位於8:00位置的鎖定拉桿，10:00位置的按鈕便會彈出，這時再輕按此掣，腕表隨即開始打簧報時。一旦開始報時，按鈕便會自動返回最初嵌入的位置。  

 節省了擺陀的空間，4.8mm厚的362自動機芯能裝載更多複雜部件，共有471件零件。 

In 2005, the Manufacture devised a system in which the crystal gong of the Master Minute Repeater was affixed directly to the sapphire crystal to which it transmitted the vibrations. Four years later, the development of Duometre a Grande Sonnerie led to the replacement of traditional hammers by trebuchet hammers designed to ensure optimal energy transmission to the gongs. The Hybris Mechanica 11 is equipped with two trebuchet hammers. They ensure stronger, cleaner striking on the two crystal gongs fixed to the sapphire crystal. This helps to amplify the sound diffusion. What’s more, white gold is chosen for the case here for it has better acoustics for a minute repeater.  Besides enhancing the sound quality, the Manufacture makes a subtle change on the minute repeater mechanism. A minute repeater normally strikes the hours, quarters and minutes on demand. When there are no quarters to be struck, a lengthy silent time lapse occurs between sounding the hours and the minutes. While there is always such an audible hiatus in the sequence, it is particularly audible when there are no quarters involved. To solve this problem, the Manufacture develops a system to reduce this silent time lapse. It “knows” the absence of quarters to be struck and thus eliminates the pause between striking the hours and minutes. As a result, the appropriate high- and low-pitched notes seamlessly follow their appointed pattern without breaking the tempo. Last but not least, this minute repeater is activated by a retractable single pushbutton for which the Manufacture has filed a patent. As opposed to the traditional slides used to activate the minute repeater function and for which the length of travel may vary according to the hour to be struck, this single pushbutton construction ensures a constant 2mm travel distance that is enough to both wind the barrel and trigger the minute repeater. To activate the minute repeater you need to activate the locking system at 8 o’clock, then press the push button that is brought out at 10 o’clock. Once the minute repeater is activated, the push button will return to its initial recessed position, ensuring that nothing disturbs the elegant look of the watch. 

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 傑作回顧
Hybris Mechanica Family
Hybris Mechanica系列於2003年開始研發，第一款Atmos Mysterieuse神秘空氣鐘是為了慶祝Atmos空氣鐘誕生75周年而製，傳承自1920年的製表傳統，並搭載隱秘的機芯，使鐘盤懸浮於半空中，再以美鑽點綴，是美學、工藝與傳統的結合。10年來，Hybris Mechanica系列可說是品牌最為頂級及複雜之作，全面演繹了高級製表業內不同範疇的精湛工藝，每一款都讓人印象深刻，並創下各項紀錄。180年以來，品牌一共造了1,242款機芯，而只有Hybris Mechanica系列的時計，會在180年前品牌創辦人於汝山谷所開設的首個製表廠的原址中設計、開發和製造，今年迎來了第11枚，此時此刻，我們不妨再一次回顧過去10枚傑作的風采。

Hybris Mechanica collection unveiled in 2003. Atmos Mysterieuse, the first masterpiece of the collection, was created to celebrate Atmos’ 75th anniversary. In keeping with the finest watchmaking traditions in 1920, the precious piece, adorned with diamonds, is driven by an “invisible” caliber which makes it look like floating in the air, blending aesthetics and craftmanship with tradition. Over the past decade, the record-breaking Hybris Mechanica series reflects the considerable expertise and sheer mastery in haute horlogerie of the Manufacture. In 180 years, the Manufacture has developed 1,242 different calibers among which only the Hybris Mechanica collection are designed, developed and manufactured in the first factory built in 180 years ago in Vallee de Joux. Let’s take a look back on the 10 marvellous pieces.     

2003
Atmos Mysterieuse神秘空氣鐘 

2004
Master Gyrotourbillon 1球形陀飛輪大師系列腕表

2006
Reverso Grande Complication a Triptyque超卓複雜功能三面翻轉腕表

    2007
Master Compressor Extreme Lab 1極限運動大師系列腕表  

2008
Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2球形陀飛輪翻轉腕表  

  2009
Duometre a Grande Sonnerie雙翼大自鳴腕表   

  2010
Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication超卓傳統複雜功能大師系列腕表 

2011
Reverso Repetition Minutes a Rideau三問翻轉腕表

2012
Duometre Spherotourbillon雙翼立體雙軸陀飛輪腕表

  2013
Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee超卓傳統球形陀飛輪大師系列紀念腕表     Duometre Unique Travel Time

 Specification：表殼：玫瑰金直徑：42mm機芯：383手上鍊機芯功能：時、分、秒、第二時區跳時顯示、世界地圖、晝夜顯示、雙動力儲備顯示防水：50米約售：$358,000  

前年11月，品牌在巴黎Vendome廣場的專賣店落成時，推出了限量只有100枚的白金版Duometre Unique Travel Time，搭載了品牌獨家的Dual-Wing雙翼機芯，並且是全球首款可將第二時區時間精確到以分鐘作調節的世界時間腕表，自然十分吸引表迷。可惜數量有限，讓不少人望門興嘆，今年品牌終於追加非限量版的玫瑰金版，同樣採用383型手上鍊機芯，造型不變，本地時間與第二時區各自有獨立的發條鼓作50小時動力儲備，不會影響到對方運作。位於10:00位置的第二時區表盤，更是以跳時來顯示，與2:00位置的本地時間表盤平衡於腕表的兩邊，清晰簡潔，中央只有一支秒針在盤旋。而6:00位置的地球會與第二時區顯示同步，結合了晝夜顯示環及時區顯示盤，一幅精美的世界地圖呈現眼前。

 In November 2012, the Duometre Unique Travel Time in white gold, limited to 100 pieces, was specially created for the opening of the Jaeger-LeCoultre boutique in Paris’ Place Vendome. It houses the exclusive Dual-Wing movement, which enables to-the-minute adjustment of the second time zone. And its accuracy is admired by avid watch buyers around the world. This year, the timepiece comes in a non-limited rose gold version with the same face and is equipped with the manually-wound Calibre 383. The two main time zones display have their own independent source of energy and power reserve indicator, ensuring the operation of the two time zones does not influence each other. The second time zone at 10’o clock hosts the jumping hour while the local time sits at 2’o clock. Symmetrically aligned, the two sub-dials exude a touch of balance and clarity. The globe at 6 o’clock, aligned with the travel time, displays an exquisite world map surrounded by the time-zone indications and the day/night ring. 

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Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931

 Specification：表殼：玫瑰金直徑：46.8 x 27.4mm（厚7.3mm）機芯：822/2手上鍊機芯（厚2.95mm）功能：時、分、小秒防水：30米約售：$138,000 

Reverso自1931年誕生以來，不同尺碼、色彩、設計、功能都曾展示在大家面前。而在2011年，為Reverso 80周年推出標誌性的Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931腕表後，品牌對於這種超薄表殼，配以大型尺寸，甚至鮮艷色彩有了一定的領悟。因此繼2012年推出紅色的Grande Reverso Rouge和2013年藍色的Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Duoface Blue後，品牌今年再下一城，推出這個顏色三部曲中的最後一款──擁有朱古力色表盤的Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931。 腕表採用玫瑰金表殼和啞光棕色鱷魚皮帶來襯托朱古力色表盤，並附送來自馬球之都布宜諾斯艾利斯的Fagliano皮具工坊所打造的cordovan皮帶，以供替換。無論是顏色、巴頓形刻度、刀形指針等，都有著工業設計時代的元素，復古味甚濃，比起之前的大紅大藍，似乎讓大家更易於接受 

在過往的83年以來，Reverso系列採用過不同的色彩，但朱古力色則是首次嚐試。

Since its birth in 1931, the Reverso has consistently reinvented in various sizes, colours, designs, and functions. In 2011, the iconic Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931 celebrated the 80th anniversary of the Reverso collection. the Manufacture then introduced the Grande Reverso Rouge with a deep red dial in 2012, followed the next year by the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Duoface Blue. This year, Jaeger-LeCoultre launches the third member of this trilogy: the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 with a chocolate brown dial. This timepiece comes in a rose gold case and a matt brown alligator leather echoing the chocolate dial. It also offers an additional leather strap crafted by Casa Fagliano of Buenos Aires, the polo capital of the world. The designs of Art Deco are vividly illustrated by the palettes, baton-shaped hour-markers and dagger-type hour and minute hands, adding a touch of vintage style. This new piece seems more wearable when comparing with the vibrating red and blue colour models.