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Omega Master Co-Axial calibres Make Peace With Magnetism

Editorial Team

08/07/2014

A watch is normally protected from shock, but fails to combat magnetism. Once a watch is exposed in strong magnetic fields for long period, the movement components in ferrous metals, particularly the balance spring, would be magnetised. As a result, it would affect the accuracy of a watch or even stop it. In our everyday life today, however, it is almost impossible to avoid magnetic fields generated by electronic devices. Last year, Omega conquered the effect of magnetism by launching its first fully anti-magnetic watch Seamaster Aqua Terra >15,000 gauss. This year, the Manufacture’s anti-magnetic technology goes a step further by developing the latest Master Co-Axial calibres and applying them to various collections and references. Magnetism is no longer an enemy to watches.

Magnetism is a silent killer of watches. In fact, the earth itself has a magnetic field; that’s why a compass always points to north. Magnetic fields from electronic appliances have become more omnipresent in our daily lives. For instance, mobile phone has become a communication tool we can’t live without. And a smartphone are getting smarter day by day which exposes the watch in magnetic fields even longer time. Besides, accessories like handbags, messenger bags and protective cases for mobile phones often have a small magnetic closure which also poses a threat to the accuracy of watches at some point. Since magnetic fields are now even more present in our daily lives than they have ever been before, the anti-magnetic capability of watches has to be enhanced.

You may ask why the anti-magnetic capability is enhanced but not added. Because many movements are already anti-magnetic to a certain extent. ETA movements, for example, meet the ISO 764 or its equivalent DIN 8309, the international anti-magnetic standard. According to the standards, a watch must resist exposition to a magnetic field of 4,800 A/m and keep its accuracy to +/-30 seconds per day. 4,800 A/m is about 60 gauss (unit of measurement of a magnetic field). To give you some context of magnetic fields in gauss, the magnetic field at the surface of the Earth is about 0.31 gauss near the equator. A small magnet on a refrigerator door is about 50 gauss, while a speaker unit can create about 10,000 to 24,000 gauss, which depends on speaker unit. Therefore, watches with the ISO standard are merely capable of withstanding magnetic fields in ordinary life. Yet, it is still recommended keeping your watch away from magnets. To test whether a watch is magnetised, simply put it next to a compass. If the compass needle moves, the watch is magnetised.

The traditional anti-magnetic solution relies on a soft-iron inner case placed between the case and movement. It reduces the influence of magnetic field by providing a path for magnetic fields to pass around the movement rather than through it. Normally, it can shield a magnetic field of 1,000 gauss. Nevertheless, this approach is so passive and cannot handle the challenge of strong magnetic field.

Omega, a pioneer of innovative technology in watchmaking, realised that the soft iron case has its limitation of eliminating the effects of magnetism. So, they decide to get to the root of the problem: directly make the movement itself anti-magnetic. The Manufacture has achieved and realised thus far since 2008 by launching the anti-magnetic Si14 silicon balance spring, followed by last year’s Co-Axial calibre 8505 equipped in the Seamaster Aqua Terra >15,000 gauss, which resists magnetic fields greater than 15,000 gauss. This year, the latest Master Co-Axial calibres build up a unparalleled anti-magnetic movement troop, including 8400/8401, 8500, 8511 and 8520 to power the scores of new watches of different collections.

As mentioned above, Omega’s ultimate goal is to create an anti-magnetic movement. Apart from the Si14 silicon balance spring, other parts like staffs and pivots are also made of Nivagauss, a non-ferrous material. The steel plates found in the movement have been replaced with non-magnetic plates, while the spring of the shock absorber has been crafted from an anamorphous material. So much so that, the movement is able to resist magnetic fields greater than 15,000 gauss without the bulky inner case. In addition, not only can the watch be made slimmer and lighter, it is also possible to add a date window on dial as well as a transparent sapphire crystal caseback that allows a full view of the Co-Axial calibres.

Apart from the Si14 silicon balance spring, other parts like staffs and pivots are also made of anti-magnetic materials.

Seamaster
300

Specification：表殼︰不鏽鋼/鉑金/鈦金屬/Sedna金/鈦金屬配Sedna金/不鏽鋼配Sedna金直徑︰41mm機芯︰Master Co-Axial 8400/8401自動功能︰時、分、秒、單向旋轉表圈

Over the last few years we’ve seen a trend emerging, a trend of retro watches rebirth. Then this year Omega has put their newest anti-magnetic Master Co-Axial calibres into two updated classic models. One of which is the Seamaster 300 introduced in 1957, the brand’s first watch with water resistant to a depth of 300m. The modern Seamaster 300 inherits its predecessor’s name and design such as the domed crystal glass, but it is totally advanced in materials and constructions. For instance, the sand-blasted black dial is made of ceramic and the indices are created by the enamel under-layer and coated with vintage Super-LumiNova. The new Seamaster 300 also features the striking broad-arrow hour hand and diamond-shaped minute hand, while the second hand is also coated with Super-LumiNova which ensures the clarity underwater. The unidirectional rotating bezel ring in black ceramic has a bolder look and is decorated with a Liquidmetal or Ceragold diving scale, both are highly scratch-resistant in nature.

The 41mm piece is equipped with a see-through caseback and is available in stainless steel, platinum, titanium, Sedna gold or two-tone gold options pairing Sedna gold and stainless steel or titanium. Among these models the titanium is the lightest one which highlights the Master Co-Axial calibre 8400G/8401G has an absolutely advantage over the traditional anti-magnetic watches on weight. Last but not least, the bracelet features the Manufacture’s patented rack-and-pusher clasp, which is adjustable to 6 different positions making it possible for the watch to fit over the sleeve of a diving suit.

Price around $252,400 (Sedna gold case)

Price around $66,400 (Titaninum case)

1957’s Seamaster 300

De Ville Tresor
Master Co-Axial

Specification：表殼︰Sedna金/黃金或白金直徑︰40mm機芯︰Master Co-Axial 8511手上鍊功能︰時、分、秒、日期

The new De Ville Tresor Master Co-Axial is also an update of a vintage Omega watch. Elegant and classic, the piece borrows the name from a 1949 model Tresor which was famous for its extra thin gold case and 30mm calibre within. The case – available in Sedna gold, yellow gold or white gold – measures 40mm in diameter (4mm bigger than the original model). Under the domed sapphire crystal glass is the silvery opaline dial where the Clous de Paris pattern is engraved and gold indices are placed, all lending the 1950s’ vintage and understated style to the piece.

The watch houses the latest hand-wound Master Co-Axial calibre 8511G, while the original model was equipped the hand-wound Cal. 283. Without the traditional protective inner case, a date window can be assigned at 6 o’clock, while the red gold balance bridge can also be admired through the transparent caseback. The De Ville Tresor Master Co-Axial is not one of the slimmest watches; yet, as an anti-magnetic watch with a resistant to magnetic fields greater than 15,000 gauss, it is downright slim in this field.

1949’s Tresor

Seamaster Aqua Terra
Master Co-Axial

Specification：表殼︰不鏽鋼/不鏽鋼配紅金/不鏽鋼配黃金直徑︰41.5/38.5mm機芯︰Master Co-Axial 8500自動功能︰時、分、秒、日期

An anti-magnetic watch was commonly regarded as a professional and functional timepiece in the past and targeted upon men. As Omega has an ambitious goal of implementing the anti-magnetic technology across its entire mechanical range, the brand, therefore, will not overlook the ladies’ collections. Besides the Seamaster 300 and De Ville Tresor for men, the anti-magnetic Master Co-Axial calibre is also extended to the Seamaster Aqua Terra collection. Omega shows us the latest iteration of 41.5mm and 38.5mm model and a new model in 34mm for ladies, which is the smallest piece in Seamaster Aqua Terra family. Inside this beauty is the automatic Master Co-Axial Calibre 8520G, resistant to magnetic fields exceeding 15,000 gauss. Tiny though the piece is, it is as gorgeous as the 38.5mm one. The mother-of-pearl dial is embedded 12 diamonds on the indices. The piece also offers a diamond-set bezel model for grand occasions. The anti-magnetic Master Co-Axial calibre is also practical for ladies, for there is generally a magnet closure in their handbags and makeup palette.

For the men’s references, the 41.5mm or 38.5mm case comes with 3 variations: a bicolour combination of stainless steel and 18K red or yellow gold, and stainless steel. The watch also offers 5 dial versions: lacquered black, silvery, blue, grey or champagne, all adorned with the ‘Teak Concept’ vertical lines. You may choose either a brown or blue leather strap, offering customers a wide array of combinations. This handsome piece houses the automatic Master Co-Axial caliber 8500G with a date window at 3 o’clock and is water resistant to 150m.

Seamaster Aqua Terra Master Co-Axial

Price around $143,000 (Yellow gold case)

Price around $46,800 (Stainless steel case)

Price around $55,800~$314,000

Seamaster Aqua Terra Master Co-Axial 34mm

Price around $55,800~$269,000

Seamaster Aqua Terra
>15,000 gauss

Specification：表殼︰不鏽鋼直徑︰41.5mm機芯︰Co-Axial 8508自動功能︰時、分、秒、日期

Without the 8508 calibre introduced last year, we might not be seeing the marvellous anti-magnetic Master Co-Axial calibres this year. The Seamaster Aqua Terra >15,000 gauss is worth mentioning again.

The Co-Axial 8508 calibre is the first prototype movement jointly developed by a team of Omega Engineers, ETA, ASULAB, and Nivarox FAR. The calibre itself is made of different anti-magnetic metals. Equipped with the Si14 silicon balance spring and movement’s staffs and pivot in Nivagauss, an anti-magnetic material, the timekeeping will not be affected by any magnetism and performs at a chronometric level as defined by COSC. The 41mm watch is water resistant to 150m. It features the signature dial decorated by vertical lines, Arabian numerals, and a banded black and yellow second hand, making the watch a distinctive one. (Price Around $51,500)

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