PANERAI The Golden Left-hand

2014 is a year of sports. The Winter Olympic just ended last month and the approaching 2014 FIFA World Cup will be held in June. People are expecting to see Neymar de Silva, one of the modern football greats, and his “golden” left foot on football field; in watchmaking, we see the “golden” left hand of Panerai.

2014 is a year of sports. The Winter Olympic just ended last month and the approaching 2014 FIFA World Cup will be held in June. People are expecting to see Neymar de Silva, one of the modern football greats, and his “golden” left foot on football field; in watchmaking, we see the “golden” left hand of Panerai. 

Luminor 1950Panerai’s left-handed models have a magic wand to ask a left-wrist watch wearer willingly put the watch on the right. Changing a habit of wearing watch is no easy task. But the newly launched PAM579 and PAM557 can surely do that. Chrono Monopulsante Left-Handed8 Days Titanio-47mm PAM579

PAM579表殼：鈦金屬直徑：47mm機芯：P.2004/9手上鍊功能：時、分、小秒、計時、表背動力儲備顯示

Panerai’s left-handed models are not impractical. Indeed, left-handed watches are very much part of the history of Panerai. Dubbed as “Destro”, it first appeared in the middle of 20th century. The commandos of the Italian Navy preferred to wear the watch on the right wrist, for they were required to wear several instruments on their wrists at once, namely the compass and depth gauge. The brand thus created the watch with the winding crown on the left side for adjusting the time conveniently. The left-handed versions remain today and are no longer for the navy only.

Limited to 300 pieces, the PAM579 has a 47mm brushed titanium case with dial, hands and hour markers in different browns. Equipped with a column-wheel and KIF Parechoc anti-shock device, the watch houses the hand-wound P.2004/9 movement with 8-day power reserve. Turning over the case will see the power reserve indicator. PAM579 is a monopusher chronograph; the 2 o’clock button allows the user to start, stop and reset the chronograph, while the minute-counter at 9 o’clock jumps and clicks forward one position as each minute is recorded. (Price around $180,000)Left-Handed 3 Days-47mmPAM557

PAM557表殼：不鏽鋼直徑：47mm機芯：P.3000手上鍊功能：時、分

First showcased in 2011, the PAM372 features the Luminor 1950 cushion-shaped case, sandwich dial, brown numerals and hands, vintage numeral font and hand-wound P.3000 movement. The PAM557 we are seeing exactly mirrors these characters. But it is a Destro version. The reason why the left-handed models are highly sought after is due to the limited production and their rareness. Today, the 47mm PAM557 in stainless steel is reasonably priced. It is worth pointing out that the dial is protected not by a sapphire crystal but a 3mm-thick Plexiglas crystal, lending a vintage touch to this piece. An additional Plexiglas crystal is offered in the set. (Price around $82,000)

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A Trio of Chronographs
Radiomir 1940

Chronograph Platino-45mm PAM518

PAM518表殼：鉑金直徑：45mm機芯：OP XXV手上鏈功能：時、分、小秒、計時、測速計 

The root of the first Panerai chronograph can be traced back to 1943. They developed the prototype Mare Nostrum designed for deck officers of the Italian Navy. This long experience lives on today in the wide range of Panerai chronographs. Last year, the brand developed the P.9100 and P.9100R automatic movement, the first two in-house movements with chronograph functions. The PAM524, powered by this new movement, has the vibrant orange hand and blue hand, making it a remarkable Regatta sports watch. 

The PAM518 in platinum with a white dial is as good as the PAM524 if not better. It drew much attention in SIHH. If you look closely, you will notice that the dial colour is not pure white but ivory white, adorned with luminous dots, hour markers and hands. Clean and pure, the watch having the blue chronograph hand on the white dial looks more distinguished. (Price around $603,000, limited to 50 pieces)

Chronograph Oro Rosso -45mm PAM519

PAM519表殼：紅金直徑：45mm機芯：OP XXV手上鏈功能：時、分、小秒、計時、測速計

If you are meticulous enough, you may find that the 3 chronographs employ the Radiomir 1940 case. Debuted in 2012, this cushion-shaped case has a sleek contour exuding the vintage vibe of the 1940s aesthetic. Last year, Panerai unveiled 4 models in this beautiful case, available in 42mm or 47mm. This year, the brand brings us the Radiomir 1940 chronographs. It seems that this new line-up is being promoted to be one of the brand’s pillars. The PAM519 comes in red gold with a brown California dial, which shows Roman numerals on the top half and Arabic on the bottom. Such combination of indices gains it rising popularity these years. The watch is limited to 100 pieces. (Price around $453,000)

Chronograph Oro Bianco-45mm PAM520

PAM520表殼：白金直徑：45mm機芯：OP XXV手上鏈功能：時、分、小秒、計時、測速計

The PAM520 in white gold with a black dial is also limited to 100 pieces. Its dial layout is similar to that of PAM518. Both models have 2 sub-dials and the tachymeter scale; yet, the PAM520 has the signature sandwich dial. All the 3 new chronographs house the OP XXV hand-wound movement with a diameter of 12 3/4 lignes, 18,000 vibrations per hour, which is in line with the Angelus movement that was used in the prototype Mare Nostrum. The OP XXV movement equips also a column wheel, swan’s neck regulator and Incabloc anti-shock device. The watches are 50m water resistance and the Cotes de Geneve finish of the bridges can be admired through the sapphire crystal case back. (Price around $473,000)

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Immaculate Elegance
Pocket Watch

Last year, the pocket watch PAM446 left us a profound impression. Inside the 59mm black ceramic case, there houses a skeletonised movement and a 30-second tourbillon, making two rotations a minute. Today, the brand goes back to basic and introduces two new pocket watches in smaller size, the PAM447 in red gold and the PAM529 in white good. 

The pocket watches are inspired by the cushion shape of the Radiomir, the first prototypes dating from 1936. The 50mm case has a single gold bow surrounding the winding crown at 12 o’clock, instead of the classic wire strap attachments. The watch is set with large Arabic numerals and has a sandwich dial, with the two superimposed discs enclose a layer of Super-LumiNova, the typical Panerai fashion. For the 40cm long watch chain, the design of which is inspired by nautical chains.

The precious pieces are powered by the hand-wound P.3001 movements with 2 barrels providing 3 days power reserve. Opening the hinged cover at the case back will see the power reserve indicator and the mechanical heartbeat of the watch. Elegant and sophisticated, the pocket watch is 50m water resistance and includes a special stand on which the watch can be placed, turning it into a unique table clock. (Price of rose gold version around $555,000; white gold version $583,000, both limited to 50 pieces)

3 Days Oro Rosso-50mm PAM447

PAM447表殼：紅金直徑：50mm機芯：P.3001手動上鏈功能：時、分、表背動力儲備顯示

3 Days Oro Bianco-50mm PAM529

PAM529表殼：白金直徑：50mm機芯：P.3001手動上鏈功能：時、分、表背動力儲備顯示

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P.5000 Calibre
8-day Power Reserve

In 2005, Panerai lanuched its first in-house movement P.2002, with the GMT function and 8 days power reserve. Since then, the brand has developed over 10 in-house movements in a decade. Its achievement is undisputable. Apart from the two chronograph movements, last year the brand also introduced the hand-wound P.5000 movement with 8 days power reserve. The long power reserve of 192 hours is achieved by coupling the two spring barrels with toothed rims in series. The movement is particular strong and accurate in nature. The two plates conceal and protect the component parts. Besides, the P.5000 calibre has a variable inertia balance, while the bridge supporting the balance is fixed by two screws beneath which are threaded rings which turn in both directions, the purpose of which is to adjust the endshake of the balance staff pivots. This technical feat helps the escapement to continue running perfectly in the event of shocks.

The Five 8-day Watches

PAM560 （約售$59,000）

PAM562（約售$59,000）

PAM564（約售$66,000）

PAM561（約售$59,000）

PAM563（約售$62,000）

Let’s say hello to the five newest members of the Luminor family. They are all equipped with the P.5000 movement and bestowed a simple yet elegant look. Three of which are classic 2-hand watches, the PAM560 in stainless steel with black dial, the PAM561 in stainless steel with white dial and the PAM562 in brushed titanium with a brown dial. The other two have a small second hand at 9 o’clock, the PAM563 in stainless steel with white dial and the PAM564 in brushed titanium with a brown dial. The two white dial versions feature Arabic numerals and luminous dots markers, paired with brown leather straps. All five pieces are 44mm, 300m water resistance and have a see-through sapphire crystal back. The “8 DAYS” at 6 o’clock clearly shows the days of power reserve. Here comes the good news: the five watches are priced below $70,000.