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FEATURES

Rolex A Very Practical Complication

Editorial Team

06/09/2017

When talking about watches in gold and steel, Rolex is usually the first brand that comes to the mind of watch aficionados in Hong Kong. Back in 1933, Rolex, the crowned king, coined and trademarked the term Rolesor representing their watches in gold and steel. Such combination of the two materials has already been a signature of the brand over 80 years.

Among all the new releases from Rolex this year, the single red Sea-Dweller Ref. 126600 is no doubt the star of the year. Yet, there are some other head-turning pieces that you should not miss. The Sky-Dweller first debuted in 2012 is available for the first time in a choice of yellow Rolesor and white Rolesor models, not to mention it is one of the few complicated Rolex watches and houses the dual time zone and annual calendar function. Another talking pieces are the Datejust 41 that the case comes in steel for the very first time, the Daytona dressed in precious metals and fitted with rubber strap. Last but not least, the Rolex moonphase display makes a comeback with the Cellini Moonphase.

Oyster Perpetual
Sky-Dweller

Every brand has its own market positioning. Though we don’t see Rolex sells high complications, it doesn’t mean they don’t have the watchmaking expertise to do so. On the contrary, Rolex has long been creating very practical sports watches and successfully adds complex functions to the pieces. The Sky-Dweller debuted in 2012 features the dual time zone and annual calendar function, especially designed for frequent travelers.

Housing two complicated functions, the Sky-Dweller embodies the traditions of Rolex sports watches. The central hands tell the local time, while the off-center 24-hour sub-dial shows the second time zone. The annual calendar named Saros is capable of independently adjusting for months with 30 or 31 days, automatically updating to the correct date at the end of the month. It requires only one date adjustment a year, when the month changes from February to March. What impresses much is the month is indicated in red via a small rectangular aperture on the outside of the hour track, with January represented by 1 o’clock, February by 2 o’clock, etc. Smart and efficient. What is more, only four gear wheels and two gear ratios are added to this date calendar system. Compared with other common annual calendar watches, Rolex’s innovative annual calendar does enjoy better durability.

Though the fluted bezel looks the same as the Day-Date’s and Datejust’s, it indeed features the Ring Command rotating bezel, whose position determines the function of the crown. The wearer can use it to set the local time, home time, and date, depending on which position the bezel is in.

As one of the most complicated timepieces of Rolex, the Sky-Dweller was available only in precious metals. Since its launch 5 years ago, the piece has been cased in rose gold, white gold or yellow gold. Only until this year does the Manufacture release the dual tone yellow Rolesor and white Rolesor versions. Furthermore, Rolex gives the Sky-Dweller a minor update. The dial now features rectangular index hour markers instead of numeral makers to give more open space and enhance readability.

Calibre 9001

The Sky-Dweller is equipped with the automatic calibre 9001, one of the most complex calibres ever developed by Rolex. Composed of 380 parts, the movement has a blue Parachrom hairspring patented by the Manufacture to ensure that the movement is unaffected by magnetic fields and changes in temperature. And the patented Paraflex shock absorbers ensure stable and reliable timekeeping. The movement is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification with an accuracy of +/-2 seconds per day after casing.

The calibre has an annual calendar mechanism called Saros, named after the Greek term which describes a cycle of an eclipse occurring every 18 years when the sun, moon and earth form a straight line. Speaking of the technical feat, a fixed planetary gear wheel is built at the center of the movement. And a satellite wheel engages the planetary wheel in one month, driven by the date disc. The satellite wheel is fitted with four fingers, for the four 30-day months (April, June, September, and November). At the end of each 30 day month, one of the satellite’s finger receives an extra impulse from the date-change mechanism, which causes the date to jump two days with in a few milliseconds.

Despite the complex mechanism, it is easy to set its functions. The Sky-Dweller boasts a bezel-operated control ring called Ring Command that turns anticlockwise in three different positions to adjust the date, local time and home time respectively. This patented bezel control ring consists of 60 individual components, the heart of which is a double cam and levels that engage the various gear trains inside the movement.

Specification：
表殼︰金鋼或白色黃金鋼
直徑︰42mm
機芯︰9001自動機芯
功能︰時、分、秒、年曆、兩地時間、72小時動力儲備、雙向旋轉表圈
表帶︰金鋼或白色黃金鋼鏈帶
防水︰100米

Oyster Perpetual

The new Daytona released last year comes with a ceramic bezel; another update is the white dial version featuring the famous “panda dial”. Such changes have already made it one of the most sought after piece to the Rolex fans. Even a year after its launch, the Daytona still commands a premium price. This year Rolex shows us the latest iterations in precious metals. They are bestowed an elegant yet sporty look. At the same time, it filled with nostalgia and vigor. Soon we’ll see if these mixed design elements will excite watch enthusiasts.

The piece is available in three versions to suit all preferences: yellow gold, white gold, and rose gold. Besides, it is the very first time that the Daytona is fitted with the Oysterflex rubber strap. It also scores big points for having the end links design, which is the same configuration with the Bubbleback watches in 1940s and 1950s. This handsome piece with a black ceramic bezel marries the black and gold colour tone on the dial to give a vintage charm, which recalls the legendary Daytona Ref. 6263.

Oyster Perpetual
Datejust 41

The Datejust 41 introduced last year is very similar to the Datejust 36 in many aspects, both offering a choice of either a smooth bezel or a fluted bezel. The case is enlarged to 41mm in keeping with modern sizing trends and the new slimmer case provides a comfortable fit on the wrist. Speaking of the dial design, it follows Rolex minimalist aesthetics. When comparing with the Datejust 36, the new 41mm model no long features the railway-track minute scale on the outer ring. Instead, it now comes with 5-minute increment Arabic numeral minute markers to give a contemporary look.

Last year, two dual-tone Rolesor versions are rolled out, the combination of yellow gold and steel, as well as the rose gold and steel combination. Rolex this year presents us the new generations of the Datejust 41 in steel and white Rolesor. The former features a smooth bezel, while the latter a fluted bezel in white gold, both available in different dial colours. Among the new releases, the most eye-catching one is the white Rolesor version with blue dial. The striking sunray finish and the fluted bezel add a luxurious touch to the piece. It is also worth mentioning that the white Rolesor version is complemented by a steel bracelet. The Datejust is considered one of the entry-level watches in Rolex world. While the latest Datejust 41 in steel and white Rolesor is more affordable than the previous Rolesor watches, it will probably trigger the rise in demand under current unfavouarble market environment.

Calibre 3235

Apart from the enlarged size, the movement of the Datejust 41 is upgraded to 3135 from 3235. The new 3135 automatic movement is composed of 201 components with the Chronergy escapment patented by Rolex. Together with the Parachrom hairspring, the movement is unaffected by magnetic fields and temperature variations. Thanks to the new barrel architecture, the power reserve is now extended to 70 hours. Same as the Sky-Dweller, the Datejust 41 is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification with an accuracy of +/-2 seconds per day (twice as stringent as the COSC standard).

Specification：
表殼︰不鏽鋼或白色黃金鋼（白色黃金鋼配白色黃金表圈）
直徑︰41mm
機芯︰3235自動機芯
功能︰時、分、秒、日期
表帶︰不鏽鋼鏈帶
防水︰100米

Cellini Moonphase

The last time when Rolex released a moonphase watch was in 1950s. This year, the moonphase display comes back at Rolex, which probably surprises a lot of people with this offering. And no arguments there – the Cellini Moonphase is sure to be a collector’s item.

Cased in rose gold, the piece is sized at 39mm as an elegant dress watch. The gorgeous blue enamel moonphase display is located at 6 o’clock on the white lacquer dial. Unlike a moonphase display we commonly see, the full moon is shown by a circle meteorite applique, while the new moon by a silver ring. The lunar cycle is readily to read via the arrow pointer at 12 o’clock on the moonphase display. Perhaps the design of the moonphase is less direct than that of the traditional ones. Yet, you can easily predict the lunar cycle by looking at the position of the new moon and full moon. Moreover, besides being a function, the moonphase is also a decorative display on the dial. Different from other polygon moonphase apertures, this round moonphase display gives the watch a harmoniously balanced contour. And, the moonphase is accurate to a day in 122 years, meaning you can simply pass the adjustment work to your offspring one day.